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Post by unocvin on Jan 26, 2012 10:29:54 GMT 8
still available offers I got are not right ..hahaha ..so I may keep it or trade it ..
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Post by unocvin on Jan 25, 2012 21:24:40 GMT 8
..or like most other Cerato (me incl) went to 15" ...good value on tyre, lighter weight from smaller wheels ..and you know I have a set of 15" lying around
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Post by unocvin on Jan 25, 2012 21:22:01 GMT 8
you can try 195/50R16 or 195/55R16. Hypermilers go for low, narrow profile as their style of driving does save fuel when cruising due to less wind resistance (narrower tyre) and less wasted energy from tyre flex as section height is lower. For 195/50R16, get the XL rated tyre (eg KUMHO KH31) as it usually means 2 plys to take higher pressure and the additional ply may add more stiffness.
I am getting better fuel economy from 195/50R16 (KUMHO KH31) vs 205/50R16 (KUMHO KU31), it may be combi of tyre width and compound and my pickup is a little bit quicker with less rubber on the road, again narrower and the compound I believe.
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Post by unocvin on Jan 17, 2012 10:54:16 GMT 8
i used the 7000 5w-20 ..engine was very first to spin up. Engine noise was somewhat louder probably due to the weight of the oil (eninge is 100,000km) and I had to top up at about 5000 km ..
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Post by unocvin on Jan 3, 2012 13:51:02 GMT 8
oh, coolant bypassing the throttle body. In my mind, disconnect the entry-exit tubings and join them together?
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Post by unocvin on Jan 3, 2012 11:13:41 GMT 8
If I understand it correctly, bypass the cold circuit? A permanent way is to have no coolant thermostat. Doing so, you may notice the engine taking a little bit more time to get to the intended "warmed-up" temperature, which is ok as our ambient temperatures are not like countries that has extreme temperature ranges, where having the thermostate bypass the cooling circuit and bring the engine temperature up quickly to its optimum range.
I ran my old 16 yr old sunny this way - no problem.
You mentioned "at the throttle"? Like a manual bypass? For manual activation, I guess a switched solenoid, but one that is meant specifically to fit into your engine ...may be impossible?
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Post by unocvin on Dec 30, 2011 17:10:45 GMT 8
aiyah ...late to the party again! Is the thread close for good? I am a Cerato V1 ..
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Post by unocvin on Dec 25, 2011 23:12:30 GMT 8
..dah! Just sa this thread ....and I just thought about a short/quick shifter .....
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Post by unocvin on Nov 23, 2011 18:16:32 GMT 8
check to see if cracks on top mounting plate, bearings in the top plate as well. Items are separate but parts dealers usually have them pre-installed.
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Post by unocvin on Nov 11, 2011 12:36:13 GMT 8
"Apart from speed and meter reading inaccuracy, some website mentioned braking will be compromised."
actually, braking performance improves with stickier rubber. Its the sliding friction on the road, i.e the frictional relationship of the road surface on the rubber, the stickier the rubber, the less likely it will slide - within the limits of physical law. Brakes retard or slow down the energy of the moving vehicle. That's why a very used tire has less grip, easier to provoke skids and the ABS intervenes earlier.
Most of the 195/55r15 and 195/50r15 offers "sporty" rubber formulation over the stock 195/60r15 size. Another clue would be the categorisation - all season, HP, UHP etc and also speed rating. Most 60 profile are H rated, whereas 55 and 50 profile are commonly V rated.
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Post by unocvin on Nov 3, 2011 15:19:09 GMT 8
my car skidded, hit & mounted kerb, then got off kerb ....wheels ok, tyre ok BUT my drive shaft broke, lower control arm bengkok .....replacing your tyre is so much lower in cost then what I have to pay to get my car going again ..hahaha
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Post by unocvin on Nov 1, 2011 18:11:36 GMT 8
dont feel too bad, these regular mechs gets cars back on the road and stay on the road. The performance mechs are a different breed. Speaking of which, this particular episode of Top Gear was shown on TV last Sunday. The challenge was to make a MPV go as fast as an EVO 10. ..hahahhaha Timing of EVO 10 - 1:28.2 Timing of Avantime - 1:42.5 New timing of Avantime after lots of money spent - 1:35.4 The comment at the end of part 2 puts things in perspective. It really is a funny episode this. Enjoy! Part 1 www.topgear.com/uk/videos/homemade-evo-1?VideoBrowserMode=tv-series&SeriesNumber=12Part 2 www.topgear.com/uk/videos/homemade-evo-2
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Post by unocvin on Oct 22, 2011 13:11:56 GMT 8
I checked before, you can get Eibach thru the local distributor: sales@eibach.com.sg, it was available in stock when I checked last year. H&R, have to order through www.benzline.com.sg/ -more affordable than the Eibach! Struts : KYB Excel G available but your mech have to source around - local distributor doesn't have them. If you are keen to experiment, Tuscani struts fits correctly except the spring perch for the rear suspension is a little different and requires a spacer of some sort. Strut bar : i'll suggest the UltraRacing undercarriage brace rather than strut tower bar as 1st step ...bigger improvement. Rear antiroll bar : UltraRacing 15mm, or get them to indent the 19mm but that means having to upgrade the end links so more expense to consider. I read standard Tuscani rear antiroll bar fits the Cerato too!
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Post by unocvin on Oct 22, 2011 12:49:15 GMT 8
I can attest to the KU31 being a good choice - 205/50r16 on my 1.6 Cerato. Nice grooves for water evacuation, tyre compound good for how I drive, I experienced no loss of traction driving in malaysia during heavy monsson. It gets noisy after 25000km, also the steering feel changes after that. Lasted me about 30000km. Now I am on KH31 as I wanted to try a 195/50r16XL I know it wont be like the KU31 but I wanted something that can hopefully last me 40000km so, its an acceptable compromise for me. I read as much info as i could on the KH31, this helped me decide : www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=73684I had the Michelin XM1 before, smooth, comfortable and low rolling resistance! Much depends on your expectations and driving needs too
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Post by unocvin on Sept 26, 2011 11:25:45 GMT 8
as suggested by tutuchia, go for the undercarriage brace ..
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Post by unocvin on Sept 15, 2011 15:47:34 GMT 8
Open and shut the doors, listen to the sound as the door shuts, gaps are a good clue if doors were hit before. Open bonnet, look at weld lines, look for uneveness or filler marks. If yes, it suggest a frontal hit. Open the boot, remove the liner. Look at spare tyre well, area around light clusters, again look for uneveness or filler marks. All these suggest an accident repair. I have witnessed panel beaters at work, I was a metal worker once and having owned a rear-ended car, as well as wrecking the front of my first car, i suggest staying away from one, it is a future rust bucket ...
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Post by unocvin on Aug 31, 2011 16:56:53 GMT 8
my car came with 883 before it blew. Went with 881 as it was more common ...883 rated a bit higher and also blueish tint ..not that i care for the tint
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Post by unocvin on Aug 22, 2011 10:19:55 GMT 8
one of those least suspicious culprits! ..glad for u!
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Post by unocvin on Aug 5, 2011 9:43:59 GMT 8
sounds pretty normal to be with the aux fan cutting in and out. So, your fan is working. Next if the sensor is faulty, it wouldn't function and no signal gets send to trigger the aux fan. One way to check is get hold of a infrared thermometer - the type that shoots a red beam. Spot a few areas on the radiator, condensor, water hose etc. You can see a pattern emerging - ie, when fan comes on, there is a rise in temperature, and fan stops when the temp comes down a bit. It could well be 3-4 degrees difference.
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Post by unocvin on Aug 4, 2011 16:33:02 GMT 8
ok, the radiator and air-con condensor, together with the main fan and aux fan works together as a heat management system. Only when heat reaches a certain point would both fans run together- traffic stops, engine under load, and a combination of both with the air-con running. How long did you observe that your aux fan stayed off and then on? Anything amiss when you drive? Cos the saftey factor designed into the heat management system means that the compressor will cut off auomatically when the temperature reaches a crictical point and the fans are not able get heat out of the radiator and condensor fast enough; i.e if a fan died - you'll know this cause the car interior will be hot .......unless something was wired backwards the last time hands were touching your engine bay ..
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Post by unocvin on Jul 26, 2011 11:19:53 GMT 8
thermostate fail can either be in open or close state. Car start up after long rest, thermostat is in close state for engine to get to its optimal operating temp range, so imagine if it doesn't open after that ..over heating in the cylinder head and block. It is actually ok to do without a thermostat in our kind of climate, just warm up the car longer before driving.
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Post by unocvin on Jul 26, 2011 10:34:49 GMT 8
u standing facing the engine, its on right hand side, where the black water hose connects - one end to radiator the other comes from thermostat
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Post by unocvin on Jul 25, 2011 16:41:09 GMT 8
change the water thermostat, often neglected but quite catastrophic when it doesn't work!
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Post by unocvin on Jun 25, 2011 22:01:30 GMT 8
Update to this thread.I had an accident in my work place, hit a diesel patch while making a right turn, it was drizzling lightly as well. Car went sideways, hit a kerb, mounted and unmounted. I was travelling at about 40km/h. Look at the 1st picture, the wheel moved inwards and jammed against the fender! Damage 1: My wheels sustained a deep rash, but it did not crack! Good stuff. Damage 2: Tore a section of the front lip. Damage 3: The jammed wheel was because the lower control arm bended inwards. Damage 4: The left drive shaft broke at the union join to the wheel hub. Damage 5: My wallet! I used these wheels for a week after the repairs, but took them off and its been in storage ever since. This was the last set of Slip Stream in our Cerato 4x114.3 PCD. I communicated with the Rota factory. And to their credit, HTYre commissioned a batch of Slip Stream just so I can have my one piece. That's a good customer-focus approach! The new batch was manufactured this month and are now available at HTyre. I think these Slip Stream are strong, as my accident showed. I am letting these wheels go as I need funds to cover the repairs plus a 100K major servicing and road tax/insurance coming up. PM me if anyone wants these at lower than brand new prices. Purchased : 16 March 2011 Accident : 21 April 2011 Storage : 5 MAy 2011 Driven mileage : 2505km farm7.static.flickr.com/6053/5869618966_e75fcce394.jpg [/img]
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Post by unocvin on Jun 25, 2011 2:06:08 GMT 8
I am at about 99000km on my V1, last 2 yrs of driving, regularly achieve 10km/L. Went on a lighter weight oil, drive sedately, I got a gd 12km/L, all with my 16" RM rims which are pretty heavy weight wheels!
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