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Post by unocvin on Aug 3, 2015 14:54:16 GMT 8
Hi, replacement bush for manual shifter. This is for CeratoV1, but may fit other manual. Items are new and uninstalled. I made a batch a long time ago and forgot about it, extra set left over (4 pcs). $20/- This replace worn out OEM bush that become vague & imprecise sensation when pushing into gate. Contact 96963298. I can send you instruction pics for installation. Left is the aluminium, Right is OEM rubber type.
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Post by unocvin on Jul 29, 2015 20:38:47 GMT 8
Hello. This is the V1 manual shifter housing bushing.
If yours is feeling vague, like not engaged in gear feeling, upgrade your worn rubber bush to aluminium. Letting my set go for $30. I tell you how to install, else labour $20 but i prefer not not due to my hand damage ligaments.
SMS / Whatsapp for pics or details. VC 96963298
Tks!
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Post by unocvin on Jul 29, 2015 20:26:28 GMT 8
...sorted. Thanks for the interest.
Hello. Cerato V1 going scrap soon.
Offering my KYB with H&R springs. Yours for $50 + your stock suspension in exchange + workshop fees. Car will be in Bedok Industrial Park.
SMS / WhatsApp if keen.
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Post by unocvin on Oct 17, 2012 13:03:27 GMT 8
Hi, care to share how you come to this conclusion on force distribution of 90/10? What you describe is nose dive, heavy front end and soft springs does that. Have you also noticed Cerato brake is 90% front, only 10% rear. The car will tilt alot downward in the front compared to other cars. It will be better if can change the braking distribution to 60%-40%. The spongy feel could be the brake hose, change to stainless steel.
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Post by unocvin on Aug 28, 2012 12:56:25 GMT 8
tks for sharing. I remember when i had my 1st car and after market alloy rims were heavy, unlike the current obsession with weight savings. Perhaps something to learn there, too light a weight may suggest a less strong strutural design of the wheels? I read in one forum (can't remember which one) a japanese magazine tested "light weight performance" vs standard performance wheeels around a track. Interestingly, the lighter weight turned in a slower time, which was attributed to the wheels being "flexy", too much deflections. Similarly, in yet another forum I read, an experienced auto-x'er commented in using a particular brand's light weight wheels, he could feel a worse difference to his usual set of wheels. So maybe too light (with less material) may compromise real world driving on bad roads. Or we can use taller tyres with lower pressure to bounce and absorb road imperfections ...
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Post by unocvin on Aug 22, 2012 14:54:28 GMT 8
No doubt factory made is good, but customised isn't necessarily "worse". Proper tools, correct crimp die, correct hose type and size etc ensures it all works as intended. A good workshop will standby their sales, warranty against bad fit/bad install. I think a couple of days if not one week should suffice in having problems show up, like weeping of the new hose or drop in fluid level.
What is full stainless steel?
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Post by unocvin on Aug 22, 2012 10:28:30 GMT 8
BTW, my brake hose is customised. All lines removed from the car, the hose guy measured and use the correct fittings to suit my car.
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Post by unocvin on Aug 22, 2012 10:25:43 GMT 8
Simple test : car stationary, pump the brakes in a steady manner a few times while someone grab the various brake lines. I felt the lines expaning in my grip. Rubber is not a rigid material, so over time it just can't maintain its original shape. The car was about 4 years old and 60K mileage then.
My 1st upgrade to my brake system was the steel braided hose - the steel braid provides flexibility yet restrict the hose from expanding under pressure, directing all the forces to the piston/s, which is already known to most of us. Brake fluid change to suit the new brake hose. I am on stock pads - 120K, with about 1/4 thickness to go and dust free! I may upgrade my pads but am presently satisfied with the performance with how I drive.
Personal opinion - change the brake hose, its fundamental to having all the brake force directed correctly to the piston/s in the calipers. Everything else is secondary to this; i.e better pads / rotors will not be maximise if the pressure is lost due to a flexing old brake hose.
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Post by unocvin on Aug 20, 2012 4:00:57 GMT 8
CLOSE!!!
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Post by unocvin on Aug 15, 2012 21:03:59 GMT 8
is it only front wheels? Use your spare tyre as a trouble shooting aid to isolate the problem. It may be tyre out of round or some manufacturing defect that cant be balanced out.
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Post by unocvin on Aug 15, 2012 20:59:32 GMT 8
By design, motorcycle EO is less slippery, to prevent the wet clutch in motorcycle from slipping.
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Post by unocvin on Aug 7, 2012 10:34:19 GMT 8
ya, motorcycle EO more pricey. In fact I used car EO on my motorbikes and scooters previously ..EO meant for motorbikes has to consider the wet clutch, which may mean less friction modifier in the package compared to our car EO.
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Post by unocvin on Jul 27, 2012 12:53:57 GMT 8
My workshop source for parts and install, I've been with him 10yrs. If you are in the east, PM me, i'll send you his contact.
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Post by unocvin on Jul 20, 2012 11:08:22 GMT 8
If i understand this correctly - what they may have done is bypass the temperature sensing circuit (thermistor), the compressor thus run full-time and solely dependent on the pressure switch to cut off the compressor when the system reaches the imposed safe working limit. So adding a thermostat seems like restoring it back to how it should be. Was there a problem with your air con to start with? Just curious to learn ... Hey cerato guys just wanna sure what i have done for my air con. I did a air con heater bypass so only got cold air no longer having hot air now. And the air will be cold without you moving the vehicle. In fact the air can be so cold that you will fall sick. So i installed a thermostat to tell the compressor to rest abit more. I did this in a jb workshop i frequent so if you are interested please notify me can intro you guys. They specializes in air con.
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Post by unocvin on Jul 20, 2012 11:03:42 GMT 8
Appreciate all the comments. The reason I ask for similar testing and observation is to get a base performance for our aircon system; this way i know what is standard and thus can conclude if my aircon is functioning like everybody. I know the aircon shop / mechanics will state the basic like pressure checking etc but they can't say anything conclusive if the problem remains. And I want to avoid a situation where they say it's low gas, then after say or need to clean this or that and then later compressor no good. If they are good they should be able to pin point the problem instead of making us spend money while they cover their bad trouble shooting. I have done the basics - checking pressure and topping up refrigerant accordingly. But it is still doing the 13seconds-7seconds cycle. So if anyone can, please run those simple tests I described, just need to confirm if our system works like that. Thankful for that you are reading and considering my request
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Post by unocvin on Jul 19, 2012 15:17:18 GMT 8
anyone can help conduct some tests like mine to confirm ...really dun want to anyhow spend money get chop like robert
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Post by unocvin on Jul 16, 2012 16:11:56 GMT 8
Hello. I think my aircon is not functioning as good as before. I made some observation and hope a few of us here can chip in with your observation. This helps prepare me when I visit the aircon specialist and not get conned!
Car idling after driving a few kms. First set: 1. Set mode (center knob ) to MAX A/C. 2. Set airflow to recirculate (right knob light on). 3. Fan speed 1 (so you can here the compressor and expansion valve) Result : Compressor run for about 13 seconds, cut off for about 7 seconds.
Second set: Repeat as in First set but with mode set to FACE (one above MAX A/C), right knob at max cool (blue colour) Result : Same as First Set
Third and Fourth set as above BUT with right knob in the Red heater position (1 o'çlock). Result : same as First set.
So, the right knob is more of a mixer than a temperature setting, unless my temperature sensing is spoilt.
Also, the cycle is way too fast. I think 13seconds-7seconds cycle doesn't seem right for MAX A/C or max cool position. My limited understanding, suggests this is a sign of high pressure in the system causing the compressor to cut out too early.
Appreciate if anyone else can observe based on my settings and post their findings. Thanks and appreciate it!
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Post by unocvin on Jun 16, 2012 14:17:46 GMT 8
92 ESSO works for me. Tried others, some same result/feel, some not.
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Post by unocvin on Jun 3, 2012 15:50:16 GMT 8
The Ultra Racing bars are thicker than stock, the body roll when making fast turns are better controlled ...soory to hijack this thread .. my Ultra Racing bars available for sale , let me know if u keen ..
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Post by unocvin on Jun 1, 2012 20:58:18 GMT 8
For Cerato V1 / V2 : Ultra Racing rear anti-roll bar and front strut bar for sale. Sell as a set $250 cash and carry, +$30 if you want installation. Items are removed from my car, deal Bedok North weekday. SMS 96963298 VC
Thanks for reading!
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Post by unocvin on May 30, 2012 16:43:45 GMT 8
I am curious about some of the claims. Unfortunately, our country's code of advertisement means very little. Anyone can make a claim without the need to back it up. Unethical, unscrupulous behaviour abounds in our entrepreneur culture. This is not about believeing in a product, the principle is the sales material potentially "misleads" buyers. And nothing to protect us ...
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Post by unocvin on May 30, 2012 16:35:07 GMT 8
Go electrical supply shop, ask for std power cable single core, get open-end (C shape) connectors. Lay cable out from battery negative terminal to wherever you want to ground - must have bolt points, cut to length. Crimp connectors and fasten. Simple and cheap and it works!
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Post by unocvin on May 25, 2012 16:38:31 GMT 8
inner wear? too much negative camber ah? That will wear any tire prematurely i think. Do look up www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Goodyear/Excellence.htmUK roads are mostly damp, it rains regularly, although we never reach their kind of cold temperatures, otherwise it can be quite revealing.
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Post by unocvin on May 22, 2012 20:14:02 GMT 8
Used both KU31 (205/50R16) and KH31 (195/50XLR16), following thoughts are obviously subjective cos we don't drive same way and I stay within my limits.
KU31 really noisy after 20K and feel is different after 25K and finally minimum thread at 30K. No trouble driving in rain (Sgp and Malaysia), no aquaplaning. Its good enough for me.
KH31 is much quieter. I went for advance driving, executing e-brake on wet roads. Can't get the ABS to kick in, this means its grip on wet roads. No trouble driving in rain (Sgp and Malaysia), no aquaplaning. Mine is 12K old now so can't comment on ultimate lifespan. BUT for the savings over the KU31 and my kind of driving, I am satisfied.
I am looking at the GY Assurance Fuel Max with Kevlar ...next change maybe
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oil
May 22, 2012 15:52:31 GMT 8
Post by unocvin on May 22, 2012 15:52:31 GMT 8
from memory engine oil about 2.9L w oil filter change. MT oil about 300ml ..
Engine OIl w filter change 3.3L and MT oil 2.15L
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