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Post by unocvin on May 16, 2012 21:58:47 GMT 8
use a lock, more as a deterrent...i leave car in 3rd gear and extend lock to handbrake. Cannot shift out of third and cannot lower handbrake....Also travel insurance ..
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Post by unocvin on May 16, 2012 21:46:19 GMT 8
Likely your battery is not holding charge, typical of a 'dying' battery...how old is it? Volt meter can't measure the battery health properly ... i think the correct method is measuring the fluid for some property ...can't remember ..
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Post by unocvin on May 16, 2012 21:36:32 GMT 8
The only "surge" is when the rectifier fails to rectify and regulate the AC to the proper DC voltage, thus overchargeing the battery. Downstream of the battery, voltage surge cannot happen. Current surge downstream is more a short-circuit, demanding more current than is required by the failed equipment, and the inline fuse protects that phenomena. The VS connects across battery terminals or inline between rectifier and battery? Curious to know myself ... Electrical current surge can also damage battery and electronic devices over the long run. VS can minimise these surges.
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Post by unocvin on May 15, 2012 16:26:11 GMT 8
The car's charging system and rectifying unit converts AC to DC and usually clamps DC to about 14~15VDC - it does it's own "stabilising"...so adding anything else after the rectifier does exactly what ..? .. Don't understand if it really works and as mentioned functions more like a grounding cable? I do add one more cable between battery -ve terminal to my engine block to help starting when the battery life near its end of life which was exactly 30mths before i changed. In fact all my previous cars average battery life crossed the 24mths mark without the need for any add on ..
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Post by unocvin on May 2, 2012 14:24:35 GMT 8
yep, settle the radiator first. Mine leaked too, found out the seriousness only on eve of my drive to Malaysia ..my crazy mechanic managed to get me a new piece at 7pm, changed at 9pm ..phew ..
tak tak sound, looks like its related the wheels (brake calipers??) or the steering bearings or the damper / suspension bushing ..?
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Post by unocvin on Apr 27, 2012 16:22:23 GMT 8
..this is new problem? U drove same way and never had this ya ..?
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Post by unocvin on Apr 27, 2012 16:17:34 GMT 8
It's gd to check your plugs during scheduled maintenance and gap it if the the electrode wears out too much. If u or mech have a dedicated gap measure, use it to set to a known reference like a new plug. Else set all the four to be ..say the thickness of a 10cent coin ~1.1mm ..too small or too big has its own problem. At least this way all 4 plugs are somewhat similar in its performance. Another thing you might want to check is the spark plugs. Worn plugs can affect FC. My Auto model FC about 8-9km/l. Thirsty!!!
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Post by unocvin on Apr 27, 2012 15:32:20 GMT 8
Try this, drive normally to get to 3rd gear and cruise. RPM should be lowish 1K+ ..see if its a engine speed sensor related problem. Other thoughts: 1. did u just change plugs or plug wire? 2. Fuel filter / pump
Incompatible plugs, I encountered before in my old Fiat and gave same symptoms u described. As is insufficient grounding in my V1 (also my bike), cause delay cranking when hot, so I ran a cable from block to battery. ..
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Post by unocvin on Apr 23, 2012 10:48:14 GMT 8
you notice any deep lines on the disc? there may be something caught in there ..actually screeching is metal to metal contact, signifying end 0f life for normal pads ..but yours is new ..visit a mech ya
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Post by unocvin on Apr 19, 2012 14:46:51 GMT 8
ya i hoping coe gets back low so i can extend COE ...my car maintained on time and it be a waste to scrape
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Post by unocvin on Apr 19, 2012 9:47:46 GMT 8
yep ..Cerato a bit different ..
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Post by unocvin on Apr 19, 2012 9:47:08 GMT 8
yes yes .. Sorry, what is this "lower arm brace"? Similar like the lower arm bar?
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Post by unocvin on Apr 19, 2012 9:46:44 GMT 8
think i drive all the way ..3.5 yrs more ..cant change car with current prices I like my present combination of reinforced tyre 195/50R16 for how I drive. Turn in is quick, low sidewall takes away the squishy feel during quick turns. KYB absorber and H&R springs helps too, with rear ARB and the lower-arm brace. But rear passengers complains its bumpy :0 ..actually its ok when it was on stock springs/absorbers. I have driven around the (almost) the perimeter of malaysia on highways and trunk roads before and after adding on components and must say ..it handles better at quick lane changes at speed on NS highway and really nice on sweeping trunk roads if I were to start over, first item would be the lower-arm brace, then springs & absorber. Tyres/rims followed by ARB ... since i still have my "new" 15" rims sitting around ..i may go back to stock 195/60R15, hoping to tune out the bumps a bit but also wondering how much of the handling am I throwing away .. Want sell car dekit let me know, i still got a good 3,4 years for my car
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Post by unocvin on Apr 18, 2012 11:08:24 GMT 8
what exactly does the QF do/achieve ..i know the threads exist but just no time to go trawling ..some kind souls pls :0
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Post by unocvin on Apr 17, 2012 15:03:18 GMT 8
I like my present combination of reinforced tyre 195/50R16 for how I drive. Turn in is quick, low sidewall takes away the squishy feel during quick turns. KYB absorber and H&R springs helps too, with rear ARB and the lower-arm brace. But rear passengers complains its bumpy :0 ..actually its ok when it was on stock springs/absorbers. I have driven around the (almost) the perimeter of malaysia on highways and trunk roads before and after adding on components and must say ..it handles better at quick lane changes at speed on NS highway and really nice on sweeping trunk roads if I were to start over, first item would be the lower-arm brace, then springs & absorber. Tyres/rims followed by ARB ... since i still have my "new" 15" rims sitting around ..i may go back to stock 195/60R15, hoping to tune out the bumps a bit but also wondering how much of the handling am I throwing away ..
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Post by unocvin on Apr 17, 2012 14:35:28 GMT 8
...bring it up close to redline often and it'll start to drop ..mine could be worn piston rings now the car is in its mid life
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Post by unocvin on Apr 17, 2012 14:08:31 GMT 8
ya i was always scraping my bumper with stock springs and absorber ...now i have lowered mine ..wah scrape scrape easy
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Post by unocvin on Apr 17, 2012 14:05:55 GMT 8
..i tried 40W, 30W, 20W ...fav is still Schaffer 20W ..like water .. the engine really spins With 30W and esp 20W, gotta keep an eye on the oil level. I top up every 2K ..enough to get qbove 3/4 mark on dip stick.
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Post by unocvin on Apr 17, 2012 13:55:56 GMT 8
me running w20, on 195/50r16 kumho FC is 11km/L ..mileage about 112K.
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Post by unocvin on Apr 12, 2012 17:36:48 GMT 8
u mean anti roll bar for the back?
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Post by unocvin on Mar 27, 2012 13:05:31 GMT 8
most have covered the basics like spare tyre, jump cable, water..assuming your car is in good mechanical condition with regular on-time servicing. If this is your very first time doing long driving on old truck trunk roads, then ensure you are mentally alert at all times: - Do not eat heavy meals during your break, sleepy lah. - Most roads are single or dual lanes, so be patient before overtaking, especially at blind crests. - Watch the road signs for school zone where posted speed is 30km/h, also double continuous parallel lines denoting no overtaking. Very troublesome if LCP Razak stops you ..I know that from personal experience!! Please keep to the posted speed limit to avoid hassles and also safety ..too many goats/buffalos/people/motorbikes with little predictability of their behaviour in kampung area.
Enjoy the drive! Beyond Kuantan, certain stretch brings you to about 50m of the South China Sea ..if you head further north near Kota Bahru, there are costal kampungs right at the edge of the sea.
Another good drive is the E-W highway from Perak ...I rate the stretch over Hulu Perak a better drive than the costal Rd 3 you are going on but it's good nontheless.
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Post by unocvin on Feb 8, 2012 14:49:56 GMT 8
sorry to hear that ...i think C&C diagnosis is rubbish ..a gd mechanic would make a thorough check and not based their conclucion on one fault. AFAIK, a dead cam shaft sensor will not disable an engine, it is not suppose to do that, it is a fail-safe design, meaning engine runs even when failed. Plus that petrol in cabin ...that is so substandard ..the fuel pump ..wow overcharging I think. I once paid only $40 for a Daihatsu fuel pump for a motorbike project and definitely did not pay what u paid when I changed my fuel pump last year. Hoping all gd for you now
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Post by unocvin on Feb 4, 2012 9:39:48 GMT 8
Yes, it is a little more damped, a bit more effort. By changing the pivot position, the lever becomes "shorter" - opposite to stock which has a longer lever action at pivot, that reduces shift effort but gives longer throw.
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Post by unocvin on Feb 2, 2012 22:10:43 GMT 8
Thanks KOCH for coordinating everything. Had mine fixed this evening under 40 mins ..Dave prob could do it with an eye close Verdict : WAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH ........ shift was sloopy before, now short & quick ..must change clutch release timing now to take advantage ..hahaha
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Post by unocvin on Feb 1, 2012 10:53:05 GMT 8
From what I read in the north american forums, their AC system is more of a mixer type, like hot-cold water mixer. Whereas our system relies on conventional vari-resistor coupled to a thermosensor, just like out standard bathroom water heater. So in their case, MAX A/C could just mean no hot air allowed in.
But I may be wrong ..
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