|
Post by unocvin on Jun 19, 2011 10:51:37 GMT 8
Look at the tyre sidewall. YOu will get the MAX PRESSURE reading, stay under that and you will be fine. In engineering, there usually is a margin built in. so even if you keep it at MAX level it will not explode. My practice is always to go 90% of MAX and then lower till I find something acceptable. On my 205/50R16, front 315kpa, rear 295kpa. Did the same with my 195/60R15, but these are comfort tyres so wall flex even at such high levels. Hope this helps.
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Jun 19, 2011 10:41:03 GMT 8
It usually is possible to extract the bearings from the wheel hub assembly using a hydraulic press. Sadly, parts dealers here sells the entire assembly consisting of the wheel hub and bearings, pushing the cost up.
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Jun 3, 2011 22:41:12 GMT 8
5W30 gives me better response as it is thinner. But in long run wear and tear in engine will be faster.
How would that wear and tear in the long run?
From my V1 owner manual, and I quote "For better fuel economy, it is recommended to use the engine oil of a viscosity grade SAE 5W-20, 5W-30. However, the engine is not available in your country, select the proper engine oil using the engine viscosity chart".
Surely KIA wouldn't mention 5W-20, 5W-30 if it causes premature wear? High wear rate occurs at startup, oil when cold (non optimal temp) needs effort to get around. Lighter weight oil gets around much quicker, thus gets to moving parts with lesser effort, and lubricating parts earlier. With our kind of stop-go traffic, having no chance to drive at constant high engine speed (unless 1st gear everywhere), it probably really is ok to use 30 or 20 weight oil. An oil analysis would be the best way in determining what's best.
I have 5W-20 for about 1K now (had 30 and 40 before), engine is almost 90K old. Checking oil level weekly, watching for signs of consumption. It is my choice, based on my research, and I really do think its safe to use.
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Jun 3, 2011 10:46:21 GMT 8
If I may chip in on tyres. Generally, tyres considerations have two broad performance parameters, of which there are other subsets to it. 1st being adhesion and 2nd being its water evacuation. These main considerations will then filter down to noise, comfort, rolling resistance, wear etc being compromises to the design intent. You gotta know what you value based on your driving style. Most tyres will evacuate water reasonably well within reason - too much standing water at too high a speed will result in trouble, even with the best designed product. Multi straight circumferential grooves works well for water channeling, V - grooves probably works better given the test results one finds on the www. However, adhesion plays a bigger part I feel. We encounter damp roads more often than flooded roads, so UHP and MHP tyre formulation is a good thing; but at the expense of wear / noise /comfort etc. I am on KU31, i like it much, no trouble at all on damp roads, having drove through monsoon downpours from Kelantan to Singapore via the coastal road. Given my driving style, I may never hit the limit of its performance, but suffice to say, I enjoy fast corner entry whenever I can. Mine are about 32,000kms now, Vietnam made. However, I must say the its wet performance changes somewhat after about 25,000km and it starts to get a little noisier as well. But I have been recently fascinated with Low Rolling Resistance type tyre to better economise on fuel use. I tried the Michelin XM1 but couldn’t get used to it! The Pirelli P1 Cinturato looks real interesting to me! Others that looks promising to me are Bridgestone EP150, ER300. Dunlop Street Response. Kumho KH31. Hankook K115. Also, ightweight wheels, Low Rolling Resistance tyre, 20W oil should all help lighten the load of the engine! And yes, I have 5W-20 oil in my v1.
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on May 29, 2011 15:35:27 GMT 8
Just to add on a little bit more. Its not that the XM1 is bad in any way or that the KU31 is superior in all ways, there are different operating parameters that both excel in. With the XM1, the engine was having less of a load driving the it, rpm moves that little bit easier, on the move, the car glides along effortlessly - lower resistance at work here. The KU31 has none of these attributes but I find it handles better that suits my preferences, but wear is not great, at 25000km its "magic" just about begin to dissappear - wet grip level starts getting lower, noise gets higher, still useable just don't drive it like its new. It is a personal thing though.
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on May 29, 2011 3:09:12 GMT 8
Low rolling resistance (LRR) tyre does help improve FC. XM1 was ighly recommended to me by a Carens buddy, went to 50,000km and remain consistent. I used it for about 3000km, it is very comfortable (meaning its side wall is flexy) even when pumped close to max pressure and it did improve my FC by about 10%. There is a trade-off with LRR tyre, usually outright grip in wet and dry. Having been on the KU31, I'll much prefer it over the XM1. A friend bought KU31 in 195/55R15 at AL Tyre last weekend, maybe check with them for your size.
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on May 25, 2011 13:23:02 GMT 8
if you can, pls eleborate.
your regular workshop have diagnostic OBD2 equipment? It should read abnormalities if sensors are faulty; i.e MAF, injector etc. There may also be some pressure leak in fuel / air system.
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on May 13, 2011 13:10:46 GMT 8
I'll still prefer to solve the problem with the mounting tab of the strut body before going further. With a thicker rear anti roll bar, reinforced end link, the moounting tab thus become the weakest ink. And since THIS is the strut body, a failure here can be real bad.
Back to your request, this is a list of parts i researched. For Hyundai, please try Min Ghee locally; I have been too busy with work and home to continue, so if you can please carry on and share what you find, I'll be grateful.
This are Genuine Hyundai performance struts (no springs) : labeled as UltraSports for the yrs 03-08 Tiburon/Tuscani/Coupe. It is confirmed the damping rates are better (especially rebound) than the KYB alternatives and KYB can't be fitted on our Cerato. For use on our Cerato, Right strut must be used on passenger side, Left strut goes on driver side, so that the front ARB mounts correctly.
Ultra sports FL 54650-2c300 Ultra sports FR 54660-2c300 Ultra sports RL 55350-2c300 Ultra sports RR 55360-2c300
Rear Anti Roll Bar :
19mm rear sway 55511-2C000 (aka Green Dot) rubber bushing 55513-2C110 (2 required) metal end links 55530-29500 (2 required)
If you want to get a thicker RARB, try ARB or Whiteline. I confirmed that Ultra Racing can customise a 19mm or 23mm. As long as you go above 19mm, you will need aftermarket end links: Moog 90360 OR TRW 18343
You will need appropriate size rubber bushes (23mm for 23mm RARB etc). For bushes and the Moog or TRW endlinks, try energysuspensions.com ....shipping cost as much as the items, be warned!
Alright, have fun wth your research, share what you find.
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on May 12, 2011 18:06:40 GMT 8
It's correct, Tuscani rear anti-roll bar will fit our Cerato. In fact Cerato, last generation of Elantra and the 2003-2008 Tuscani/Tiburon/Coupe share some suspension components. What was discovered is that our plastic end-links may break if the 19mm rear bars are installed - you can buy aftermarket end links. BUT you will have a 2nd and bigger problem : the rear strut housing tabs that holds supports the rear bar will snap; resulting in a potentially costly repair. In a nutshell :
Ultra Racing Cerato 15mm bar = stock plastic end links Genuine Hyundai Tuscani 16mm bar (aka Yellow Dot) = stock plastic end links Genuine Hyundai Tuscani 19mm bar (aka Green Dot) = upgrade endlinks to be safe Aftermarket Tuscani/Tiburon 22mm/23mm ARB / ULTRA RACING etc = upgrade endlinks AND perhaps Tuscani rear suspension strut
As for upgrade path; generally the north american Spectra owners spend on rear anti-roll, springs, dampers, wheel&tires in that order ...
FWIW
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Apr 29, 2011 16:30:36 GMT 8
i think Tyrepac has got 205/45 R16 if that fits you. Or go with the KH31, I don't know the family relation in the Kumho model lineup but it received good reviews in some german tests.
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Apr 28, 2011 23:38:53 GMT 8
I can recommend the KU31, it has more than enough grip for my Cerato when I had 16" wheels. 2 months after I fitted them, I took a 5 days road trip first to KL, then Ipoh, onto Rd 4 going west-east to Kota Bahru, this is one of the most scenic and windy road, taking in the lakes. From Kota Bahru, along the coastal road down to Johor. This was in November, and its was extreme monsoon with lots of rain and reports of flooding. Practically rained from Ipoh till I got to Mersing, so I had a real test of dry and wet roads, twisty, narrow secondary roads with potholes, recessed drain covers and all sorts road imperfections. Highway 3 down the east coast was mostly empty when it rained, so I had lots of road clearance to push at 90km/h in the rain. Back on our roads, some times I intentionally pushed during heavy downpours just to get that wet driving feel going 90-100km/h, and it was always reassuring. Alas, by 25,000km its feel on wet roads changed, no longer what it was before, but still perfectly good on dry roads and if kept to normal speeds, safe in the rain too. Unfortunately, the KU31 are not available by the time I had to change tyres. I'll buy them again come tyre changing next.
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Apr 26, 2011 15:49:32 GMT 8
more air in tyre, try 90% of max pressure, this way wall flex minimised, its free ..
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Apr 26, 2011 10:07:53 GMT 8
over the years i have accumulated my fair share of surprises to both cars and motorcycles in my ownership, can't do much really. I've adopted the mindset the outside of my vehicles are as good as public property to the birds, the itchy fingers and butts, the trees, other vehicles ..... hope u get better tho ..i know that shitty feeling
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Apr 12, 2011 17:38:46 GMT 8
...unless you wanna spent on having good front-end control of the sub-frequencies. I really dont think its necessary, most cars/lorries i encounter on the roads with that thump ..thump..thump ...I don't know how enjoyable that is being on the inside .. Your car (any car) is a volumetric space, a subwoofer works in its own volumetric space ..any volume space will have its own acoustics signature whcih also react to certain audio frequency band. So if you can imagine, with a lack of front end control, a badly setup subwoofer will actually distract from a pleasant sounding system ... eh what exactly are you hoping to improve? I see you mentioned components ..or is it coaxial? Our hearing gets attracted to the loudest frequencies -doesnt matter good or bad, just loudest. So if the loudest happens to be fatiguing to the ears or has no definition i é. thump thump thump .. Good tweeters in the A-pillar position with a 5"or 6.5" woofers off a good head unit is plenty nice without needing to speand a bomb and time to correctly align and tune, especially if all u want is radio 90% of the time. ...hope this helps
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Apr 10, 2011 15:31:55 GMT 8
Bedok industrial estate ...oppo your preference tho
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Apr 8, 2011 11:33:23 GMT 8
yep, it was a clutch plate issue, it got better with more kms on it but never really go away ..until I moved on from the Sunny .. my mech felt bad and embarassed about the clutch, it was a brand new set, tried as he might, dismantling it out twice but just couldn't find out anything abnormal with it. It wasn't a big deal for me then, so I did not pursue it further. Besides, he has always been great to me and my cars, my bikes and my dad's car and his bikes ...long time relationship lah .. Its great to have one mech/workshop and stay with them ...it builds trust and friendship!
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Apr 8, 2011 10:53:33 GMT 8
Terms and descriptions varies widely among individuals; i.e our understanding of "jerkiness" will not be the same nor is the expectation of what can be attributed as being "normal" in relation to a cold engine in a closed-circuit injection mode, cold clutch etc. I had a old Sunny, whose replacement clutch take-off is just ridiculously abrupt, regardless cold or hot, it taught me clutch control when moving off the car when cold, I mayhave developed he-man ankles dealing with traffic jam LOL It may all be "normal" but please have it check with your mech or the agent workshop, they should identify it and ease your mind.
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Apr 7, 2011 11:46:59 GMT 8
What does your tacho shows when that happens? HIgh revs and constant or reduced speed may be a clutch slipping problem...
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Apr 3, 2011 0:55:02 GMT 8
theredstar, you Riosters are the lucky ones with 4x100 PCD! Choices in this PCD are plentiful and much more affordable - Rota and SSR-chiong going for $100 per wheel:) mine is bronze but i really dig the polish silver which I think is not available here.
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Mar 30, 2011 14:40:07 GMT 8
..bed ok
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Mar 30, 2011 9:47:45 GMT 8
$120 each corner
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Mar 29, 2011 15:51:17 GMT 8
Google singapore SSR type and AL tyre ..that should return results to AL Tyre..
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Mar 29, 2011 14:50:53 GMT 8
I swap out the 16" for a set of 15" fitted with Michelin XM1. If it had been available, the Kumho KU31 would be my choice as I have become familiar with its characteristics, and that would be a great way to compare the difference with only the wheels being different. On the other hand, I really like the Slipstream and have been looking out for them since 2009! Rota got some bad press as a clone/replica/fake/copy manufacturer of marque names' orginal wheel design. Based on what I read of netizens' opinions of the Slipstream, I made a few presumption. The manufacture of this particular design dates back about 10 yrs, and that would allow them to fine tune their process and design, refined by experience to make it better. Afterall, in those early days, their export to the USA were besieged with reports of breakage and cracks heavily publicised via the WWW. They took the step to replace broken wheels, a sign of their intent to make themselves a trusted manufacturer. I trust they put that experience to good use and feel the Slipstream of today is a safe product. I am really happy to find this (maybe the only?) set of 15x6.5 et40 in our 4x114.3 PCD and a perfect 67.1mm centrebore size (no need for hub rings!). The +40 offset just touches the Cerato btake calipers, adding 2mm thick washers on the studs solved that and still allow the wheel to be centered on the axle hub (diameter 67.1mm). I was told that a custom order of this particular specs was made for track use and this is the very last set from that batch kept as a backup. Rota are not exactly low-priced, so I am surprised to see the more common flat black Slipstream 15x6.5 in 4x100 PCD priced very attractively by one particular shop, but useless for our Cerato. There is only one small bug for me : Bronze is not my choice of colour! I really like silvery/grey (there is a polished silver in the factory catalogue!), this colour contrast against my black-coloured Cerato is a little racy for my taste. I don't know if I can get use to the colour. Comparing this setup with my 16" wheels : steering is lighter, moving off is easier, need not use as much throttle going up MSCP, steering response feels quicker but this could be attributed to tyre section width and/or rubber composition (wished I had the KU31 to compare). The suspension is also coping better with less unsprung weight. Hopefully, I'll start to see my fuel economy improving and the XM1 lasting longer than the KU31 which starts to feel different at about 25,000km (wet driving is no longer what it was). My mechanic highly recommends the XM1, his set is about 50000km old and claims its performance stayed consistently the same throughout. And if I can just hope for one more thing : a polished silver Slipstream ....some day. *not advertising, nor endorsing, just celebrating
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Mar 29, 2011 2:27:07 GMT 8
Assuming your battery is good, check that both cables to battery are properly secured. But then if your alternator checked out ok, your mech would have checked the cables .. nothing like this happens in the day?
|
|
|
Post by unocvin on Mar 29, 2011 2:10:22 GMT 8
4.9kg ...what wheels are these? Ya, the real lightweight forged wheels are out of reach for me .
|
|