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Post by zleipnir on Jul 24, 2012 0:44:51 GMT 8
oldest model mah
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Post by zleipnir on Jul 24, 2012 0:44:15 GMT 8
alignment can try fong kim also $50 the last time i did
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Post by zleipnir on Jul 21, 2012 0:41:33 GMT 8
yupz gtg sleep tomorrow got duty T.T
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Post by zleipnir on Jul 12, 2012 21:54:43 GMT 8
ya that speed is your resonant frequency... which should not be there. Maybe should get your wheels balanced again to check.
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Post by zleipnir on Jul 12, 2012 21:52:16 GMT 8
hahah wtf sia!?
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Post by zleipnir on Jul 11, 2012 0:37:05 GMT 8
bro, wrong section sial...
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Post by zleipnir on Jul 5, 2012 18:39:51 GMT 8
I think FDL makes more power. My guess is tuning maximizes the engine potential while extractor is an addition of hardware. I guess that tuning is an improvement of the overall rpm range while extractor w/o tuning improves a certain range of rpm. I really have no idea about the answer coz never change extractor before. Yes, Picanyeo, you are right again. Extractor will work well at certain RPM range, depends on how it is designed/sized. The power increment is usually around 5-6% at most. However, FDL improve from idling to redline. Average increment is about 8 - 20% depends on what type of engine. actually IMO, extractor never increase ur engine's performance but rather making the flow timing better and smoother so it sorts of only improves the engine from stock. I suppose stock engine never really maximise the use but rather for long lasting, comfort and normal driving. After I installed extractor improves the pick up at low end, after 3k rpm is back to stock already haha
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Post by zleipnir on Jun 26, 2012 12:57:18 GMT 8
I did Drift racing extractor from fong kim and HKS hipower muffler from Garage R. I won't say low end suffer, rather no improvement if have HKS muffler. I feel my low end RPM still pick up as fast as i did the extractor. Mid range no improvement and high end got slight improvement. The only thing I cannot "tahan" is the super bassy sound created at 2 to 2.5kRPM... I suppose they are different brands are not designed for each other hence the sound frequency both product produced caused the sound to be extremely bassy at that particular rpm range. BTW... QFR is for stock parts + RISK only :x I was told that HKS exhaust installed, my low end will suffer.. Fong kim suggest to accomodate the low end suffer, can put LTA approved extractor. But if i dun wan to the extractor, will QFR compensate my low end suffer?
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Post by zleipnir on Jun 22, 2012 11:45:38 GMT 8
Do you need it for work everyday? day time coupon?
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Post by zleipnir on Jun 10, 2012 18:15:27 GMT 8
Ya better change to another brand, brisk on forte got some bad reviews already. IMO don't need a very high end spark plug as the flash fire created is so fast unless we talking about F1 cars when every milliseconds counts hahaha
For me I changed from stock "Champion" to "Denso" spark plugs no difference at all.
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Post by zleipnir on Jun 10, 2012 18:11:41 GMT 8
I suppose coilover is the spring plus damper. Do you mean customised coilover? Those that we bought are also customised but for forte. Damper can adjust, so it's only the strength of the spring you can ask the workshop to change out to a harder or softer one depending on your butt feel I asked Fong Kim for a harder spring at the rear as it is very bouncy for the 6kg front and 3kg rear. I up-ed it to 6kg front and 4kg rear. feels alot better. So any suggestions for spring and shocks combi tats better than the stock ones in terms of comfort and handling as well?
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Post by zleipnir on Jun 9, 2012 18:10:34 GMT 8
lol simi sai! >.< I dun chiong one leh... max i cruise 120km/hr leh... anyway is "zleipnir & gf" Updated list: 1) Roy 2) Bear (Convoy Leader) 3) Tutuchia (after middle marker aka cheongster!) 4) Jasonlai 5) Petertham (after middle marker aka cheongster!) 6) Kiaboi & Kiakid (Safety Car) 7) Pat 8) zleipnir (after middle marker aka cheongster!) 9) Taps41 10) Kelvin & family 11) ANDY (TBC) kelisa Please copy and paste....All are welcome. I input a few of the key personnels liaoz... keke... Tis time round i cant go too fast cos my 2 boys coming along... So, all cheongsters pls stay at e back!
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Post by zleipnir on Jun 8, 2012 10:42:01 GMT 8
Ya I also interested. Any fees for Maps updating? What GPS and map they have?
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Post by zleipnir on Jun 7, 2012 16:38:50 GMT 8
Neighbour Roy! I don't have walkie talkie... need to buy one or anyone can borrow me?
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Post by zleipnir on Jun 6, 2012 18:12:09 GMT 8
I signed this package thingy with them and still have 1 more servicing to go. (50,000k) Is it better to do with C&C or outside? i thought their service brocure is a good indicator of the costs.. although I cannot remember the costs off hand.. here it is Smooth Rider/documents/webbasiccontent/037019.pdf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">www.kiaglobal.com/sg/en/wcm/groups/webcontent/ Smooth Rider/documents/webbasiccontent/037019.pdf
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Post by zleipnir on Jun 6, 2012 0:30:34 GMT 8
a bit chim leh... lol... got picture? By external you mean the side of the tyre or the top where it touches the ground? The ^ is located at the side of the tyre.. then u follow the arrow to the 1st row of markings.. there shud be a hump.. if it is deep, that means is new tyre.. if is not deep, then is wearing out soon.
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Post by zleipnir on Jun 2, 2012 12:47:45 GMT 8
air pressure plays a part on your FC also. If u have less pressure your tyres have more contact with the road, better grip and less bumpy but your FC gets worse. I tried 220 to 240kpa. got difference. I stick to 240kpa hahaha the air pressure dont really depend much on the size but if u r talking abt FC.. the weight of the rim plays a part. tts what i noe... correct me if i am wrong dudes!
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Post by zleipnir on May 30, 2012 15:15:03 GMT 8
Just in case u dunno, tyres also has manufactured dates.. hence, the longer the date of manufactured, the cheaper it is.. u may get a cheaper price for ur tyres, but do note of the tyres date. Always remember, cheap things dun come good. To see if u need to change tyres, and dun be conned by the workshop guys, u might wanna try this Every tyres got a '^' arrow at the external surface of the tyres.. follow the ^ and touch the first row of tyre markings.. u will feel the hump.. if the hump and the tyre surface gap is thin, then it's time to change tyre. I learn from tyre workshop de.. By external you mean the side of the tyre or the top where it touches the ground?
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Post by zleipnir on May 30, 2012 15:11:44 GMT 8
ya loh.... mine is like that.... damn noisy! >.< Hi Bro, what does it mean "wet" tyres? Wet tyres have better aqua planning and grip on wet roads. Usually their tyre threads are 'V' shaped to cut thru water and they are of softer compound...therefore noisier.
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Post by zleipnir on May 18, 2012 16:58:21 GMT 8
Ya my butt feel is HP not much increase but the gear change lag is alot less or can say it's almost gone (Auto car). Move off is much easier and less laggy. Actually, in contrast, we have proven ourselves based on the number of RISKers we have and we thank them for believing in RISK. If RISK does not live to its expectations, it would have close shop long time ago. Perhaps you would need facts and figures to convince yourself, but rest assured that majority would rather believe their butt feel rather than figures. They drive their RISKed cars, they know how it feels. Those who think modding a NA car can gain a significatant HP, I would say it is not really possible. Thats why the reply came : Get a higher cc or TC car came about. I would rather go for driving pleasure instead like a lighter acceleration and reduce lag in lower gear change. This is what u need here. HP is for TC or higher CC cars which cant be compare over our NA cars here. Think of how many times u need to maximize the HP in your daily local driving. I agreed with picanyeo on this comments that dyno is only figures for reference and what u really matters is the butt feel that u like for this mod. Cheers...
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Post by zleipnir on May 4, 2012 21:24:10 GMT 8
but rocking most prob is the damper/shock absorber leaking... bcos damping force is reduced... other than that... not really sure what can cos ur car to rock side to side.
hmmm how about alignment of the wheels? done yet?
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Post by zleipnir on Apr 27, 2012 23:09:08 GMT 8
I a bit confused. I got RISK and wanna do QF for my ride. how much I pay?
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Post by zleipnir on Apr 27, 2012 23:05:06 GMT 8
Anyway if wanna lower, go for Coilover dun go for lower spring... I tried on my Forte... Tein lower spring... total CMI... -.- the spring harder than the stock damper... in the end my car bounce for very long before stablizing... feel like vomiting. coilover is bumpy bcos the damper stroke is shorter hence u need to have it harder. But good thing is u can adjust the hardness or change the strength of the spring. Comfort wise, stock is better bcos of the long stroke but fender gap too big is ugly IMO :x hahaah so i use coilover
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Post by zleipnir on Apr 18, 2012 19:59:56 GMT 8
I see some people put this... actually what does it protect anyway?
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Post by zleipnir on Apr 18, 2012 19:59:00 GMT 8
I do 240kpa too but will be more bumpy as it's harder. 220kpa for comfort and grip but FC higher loh
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