cstay
Neutral Gear
Posts: 14
|
Post by cstay on Jun 4, 2006 15:09:59 GMT 8
Hi All, I was on my way back to Singapore yesterday approaching to Malaysian Custom checkpoint. Was in the traffic jam for 45mins. My car then start to cough when moving and finally stalled within seconds. During this 45mins, the air-con is on at speed 2 and the traffic is very slow moving, transmission is always on D position with very frequent start/stop movement. Time is around 4pm under hot sun. Loaded with 5 average adults. When stalled, I restart and whithin seconds it stalled again. Done this for 3 to 4 times. Then finally off the air-con. OK and cleared all the way passed Singapore checkpoint 30mins later. Wondering why is this happening? or other Magentis also facing same problem? This Magentis of April 2005 milage is now 43000km but it happened once same condition when milage at just 300+km. When it first happened at 300+km, I've asked C&C Pandan to check. They performed engine HI-Scan and said the car is OK. Is it the nature of Magentis? I've always trust my judgement in buying Magentis despite a lot of bad comments about Kia from relatives. Really embarrassed me since I was actually carrying one of them when stalled.
|
|
|
Post by hattee on Jun 7, 2006 20:51:58 GMT 8
Perhaps, stalling caused by deteriorated battery can happen in any car.
My previous 2-year Lancer also stalled after 1 hour traffic jam to JB. Stalling gone with a/cond off. Probably my aged battery when overheated in the boot at prolonged jam, zaps more alternator charging current than usual. Unfortunately at idle rpm, alternator output are at its lowest. Voltage can easily drop below 10V with a/cond and radiator fan running when most ECUs cannot operate properly.
Now I replace battery whenever my Apexi gauge shows well below 11V in the morning. Also, added insulation on the battery sides facing engine. Leave only oneside unwrap for residue heat in battery to escape when engine is off.
|
|
cstay
Neutral Gear
Posts: 14
|
Post by cstay on Jun 8, 2006 12:44:39 GMT 8
Hi Hattee, Thanks for opinion. Got C&C to check yesterday. As usual, no problem found. They re-tune and replace temperature sensor. I'll get a battery gauge to check if it is OK every time when need to cross the checkpoint. But, what is the reason for insulating the battery? Also, is it true that maintenance free battery is not very reliable and short life?
|
|
|
Post by hattee on Jun 9, 2006 19:37:56 GMT 8
Hope my suspicion of your case due to deteriorated battery is not wrong since everything ok after shedding off the load of the a/con fan. Didn't you notice no more stalling even with the a/con ON once engine compartment get the air circulation when you move out of the prolonged jam?
If I remember my teacher correctly, deteriorated battery (near flat or sulphated) can experience thermal runaway when charged at elevated temperature. This occurs when battery internal resistance falls and drawing higher current and causing internal heating which lead to further increase in charging current.
Unusually high charging current causes fall in alternator voltage that upsets the rest of the car electronics. If the battery is in terribly bad conditions, off a/con may not even help. Perhaps, got to consider replacing battery when voltage is below 11V first thing in the morning before you start your car.
Insulating the battery side can reduce the increase in battery temperature due to the heat inside the engine compartment. If you don't mind I pass you some insulation material, PM me your contact. My guts feel is battery life can be extended by 20-30% with the correct insulation.
Except for premium maint-free battery (eg Optima), wet battery usually outlasts maint-free battery, provided you remember to top out electrolyte.
|
|
|
Post by tukibird on Jun 10, 2006 10:19:13 GMT 8
hi any of u try heat shield the batt and airbox like mancando selling those type ? or anyone DIY thier own ?
|
|
|
Post by lawson on Jul 3, 2006 15:26:24 GMT 8
i also . i think not e battery . cos after change e battery it still happen . what i do is push to N when at jam .
|
|
|
Post by hattee on Jul 4, 2006 21:44:06 GMT 8
Perhaps, yours doesn't seem to be stalling. Correct me here if I am wrong. Stalling to me is a condition for engine to die (cannot sustain running without intervention).
Is yours a case of excessive vibration at the steering wheel? I do notice the mild vibration during prolonged stepping of brake at red traffic, particularly with a/con running. Most front wheel drive has this phenomenon. Maybe alittle more acute with Magentis/Optima. And vibration totally gone after disengaging the AT by putting to N. Many possibilities - lower than usual idling rpm controlled by ECU, weaken idling torque or insufficient AT slippage when not moving, etc.
Thinking whether lightening the crank pulley can help?
|
|
|
Post by lawson on Jul 5, 2006 12:28:41 GMT 8
mine is stalling , mean i need to start my car again .,
|
|
cstay
Neutral Gear
Posts: 14
|
Post by cstay on Jul 5, 2006 12:48:23 GMT 8
Hi Lawson, Seems you're having same problem. How long are you in the traffic jam before stalling? Then, what happened after you re-start your engine? BTW, what is your car milage now? I basically wish to understand whether it is the nature of this car. You can read my posting on the first one.
|
|
|
Post by hattee on Jul 8, 2006 11:03:54 GMT 8
Bros, I must have not understood your stalling problem. Sorry for that.
If setting to N effectively removed the stalling conditions, it probably has something to do with the tranny or idling. Do you notice the rpm is usually low whenever the stalling happened? Perhaps, when queuing up at C&C, don't switch off engine but leave your car with max a/con and headlights on while idling at D and hope the problem shows up.
If the conditions cannot be simulated at C&C, got to understand the problem alittle more ourselves.
Although Lawson is correct that battery is unlikely the cause since it's changed, might be good to take one voltage reading in the morning before you start the car. Anything below 11.5V means battery conditions not very good. I think your must have checked your ATF level and it's full.
My steering vibration seems to be most noticeable with a/cond and headlight on when idling drops to 800 or below. My on-board voltmeter reads as low as 13.0V charging voltage as compared to 13.5V when new. Once a/con and headlights off, alternator voltage is as high as 14.2V and the steering vibration totally gone with rpm at 950.
|
|
|
Post by lawson on Jul 13, 2006 2:25:16 GMT 8
after about 20min in Q slow moving in jam it stalled . when u restart it look fine , but 1 u push to drive it stalled again . my car is 2yr old milage 74k .
|
|
cstay
Neutral Gear
Posts: 14
|
Post by cstay on Jul 13, 2006 13:06:36 GMT 8
This must be the nature of Magentis. Your condition is exactly same as mine. I have it since milage at 300+km. It is real hard for me to accept this fact and live with it.
|
|
|
Post by hankookmag on Jul 14, 2006 0:14:32 GMT 8
It seems that we, Mag owners, have been presented with different sets of problems with the car. I do not know if all the Bros here have the same problem with C&C. It seems that whenever some problems that I brought to their attention and they are unable to solve them, they will tell me that "it's like that" or "it's the same for the Mitsubishi". Some of the issues that I brought up: 1) Power lock - noticed that whenever I lock or unlock, I can hear an after sound (like spring vibration), this happens for all the 4 doors. 2) Screws rusted - the wing mirrors - could see brownish water dripping. The screws were changed at my last service. 3) Incorrect tyre size, 205/50R16 87V. These are meant for 1.6litre cars. They offered the same 16" upgrades for the Cerato. How can that be? The OE size for the Mag: 195/70R14, so upgrade should be 205/60R15, 205/55R16 or 215/50R16. You can check the label pasted on the side of the driver side door, which also state the appropriate pressure. Check it out & see for yourself. I manage to resolve that with C&C. Anyone interested to know can PM me. Why am I bringing all this up in this forum? Simply as Mag drivers/owners in SKC, we must band together and get C&C to provide us with appropriate answers to the problems some of us may or may not. Will the problem of stalling happen to me? I don't know. It may or may not. My point is that if we band together as a group then we have 'power' to negotiate or demand certain resolution whatever the situation/problem is. (much like union) What do you Mag Bros say? Perhaps we can have a regular meet?
|
|
|
Post by hattee on Jul 19, 2006 8:13:03 GMT 8
I can empathise having car problem in such early stage of the car. Might be alittle surprised if C&C dishonor warranty on stalling. Is the problem not similated at their workshop? On hindsight, stalling happening after 20 mins Q is really serious. do you have problem telling the mechanics that you just let the car run with a/con in the carpark area under the sun. You can slowly wait and drive round until the stalling occurs and they can be immediately contactable through cellphone. This must be the nature of Magentis. Your condition is exactly same as mine. I have it since milage at 300+km. It is real hard for me to accept this fact and live with it.
|
|
|
Post by ahkean on Nov 20, 2006 16:02:54 GMT 8
Seems this is only happen in Mag 2005 series, is anyone here experience this also for new Mag 2006?
|
|
|
Post by tukibird on Nov 21, 2006 12:19:03 GMT 8
dont have this stalling prob any more after i uni-chipped my 2005 car
|
|
|
Post by hattee on Nov 23, 2006 21:27:42 GMT 8
wow somebody uni-chipped Magentis. Dunno got chance to try try.
|
|
|
Post by tukibird on Nov 24, 2006 8:45:34 GMT 8
lol power i dont know lah i big and heavy lei with ICE think off set with uni-chip liao hehehehe still waiting for my 2pot big brake kit to reach singapore lei ....... org brake cannot make it still got a few things to upgrade coil over and stuff dont feeling like changing yet cos still under warrenty .........
|
|
cstay
Neutral Gear
Posts: 14
|
Post by cstay on Nov 30, 2006 13:06:08 GMT 8
What is uni-chipped? How much does it cost and does it void warranty?
|
|
|
Post by tukibird on Nov 30, 2006 21:18:06 GMT 8
err...... C&C if want to void warranty u change anything also cannot liao this type of things before go in to fix prob with car take out my unichip cost abt $800 i think cant remeber liao unichip must be last item to upgrade change all other stuff first if not have to pay to retune again ........
|
|
ka
Neutral Gear
Posts: 27
|
Post by ka on Dec 30, 2006 9:59:10 GMT 8
Bro Hankookmag, I agree with you that Magentis owners should come together, and apply pressure as a group to ensure we are treated fairly. I've got my Magentis in Jul 2005, and done 26k mileage - so far have not experienced the stalling problem. I do hope its not a generic problem with Magentis in general. In any case, I do not have serious mod for my car - so it is quite stock. Also, with your new tires did you notice: - is it noisier?
- is FC better or worse?
I guess its too late for me to change my tires... but will remember next time I need to replace them. ka It seems that we, Mag owners, have been presented with different sets of problems with the car. I do not know if all the Bros here have the same problem with C&C. It seems that whenever some problems that I brought to their attention and they are unable to solve them, they will tell me that "it's like that" or "it's the same for the Mitsubishi". Some of the issues that I brought up: 1) Power lock - noticed that whenever I lock or unlock, I can hear an after sound (like spring vibration), this happens for all the 4 doors. 2) Screws rusted - the wing mirrors - could see brownish water dripping. The screws were changed at my last service. 3) Incorrect tyre size, 205/50R16 87V. These are meant for 1.6litre cars. They offered the same 16" upgrades for the Cerato. How can that be? The OE size for the Mag: 195/70R14, so upgrade should be 205/60R15, 205/55R16 or 215/50R16. You can check the label pasted on the side of the driver side door, which also state the appropriate pressure. Check it out & see for yourself. I manage to resolve that with C&C. Anyone interested to know can PM me. Why am I bringing all this up in this forum? Simply as Mag drivers/owners in SKC, we must band together and get C&C to provide us with appropriate answers to the problems some of us may or may not. Will the problem of stalling happen to me? I don't know. It may or may not. My point is that if we band together as a group then we have 'power' to negotiate or demand certain resolution whatever the situation/problem is. (much like union) What do you Mag Bros say? Perhaps we can have a regular meet?
|
|
|
Post by hankookmag on Dec 31, 2006 19:03:20 GMT 8
Guess there aren't many active Mag bros in this forum. Perhaps we can organise a kopi session & exchange pointers in the new year.
As for the correct tyre size 205/55R16, the ride is definitely more comfortable. As for FC, there is no effect because it is only a few mm larger than 205/50R16 (btw is incorrect size).
I'm now able to consistently get above 10km/litre on the tank.
|
|
cstay
Neutral Gear
Posts: 14
|
Post by cstay on Jan 10, 2007 12:47:56 GMT 8
Hi All, I've also changed mine to 205/55 R16 for about 2 months. First worry is about speedo & FC. But, no problem. Please feel safe to change.
|
|
|
Post by blastwave on Apr 23, 2007 17:02:05 GMT 8
Bros, i kena the stall prob already. Last week when i slowed down and stopped at traffic light, all of a sudden the engine went eerily quiet!!. Luckily i remembered the postings here. Switched off everything, and restarted. Everything ok. Yesterday night, after waiting for my wife for 10mins with aircon on, about to move out so I engage to 'D', engine dead again. Restarted and ok. 5 mins later, again when slowed down and stop at traffic light,deja vu! TOmorrow going to Defu to check. Battery just changed last month. I dont know much about car engines but something tells me its got to do with our low engine idling speed which is also causing the idling vibration... dunno lah... too tired to think... time to look for new car maybe..
|
|
|
Post by piccar on Apr 23, 2007 19:15:31 GMT 8
wats the mileage of ur car? maybe its time to wash ur throttle body.
|
|