stahn
Neutral Gear
Posts: 20
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Post by stahn on Dec 2, 2010 2:46:14 GMT 8
Hi bros! Sorry to ask a maybe repeated and dumb question but just to check with u guys 1. how much litre of EO is required of a 1.6A Cerato V1? 2. if my EO level is below L indicator on the dip stick can i still drive without the engine kenna illness? 3. what type of coolant is recommended? and where u pour the coolant into? into the reserve first then main? 4. if cranking takes very long like serveral second, it is mainly the starter problematic? Sorry for all the quite dumb questions cuz i find that after repairing my car for so many times and the repairs i have done has not solve any of the problems i am very very disappointed and felt like a carrot head.... My car details Cerato V1 Auto 1.6, 129K mileage =)
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Post by cyberalex on Dec 2, 2010 5:36:51 GMT 8
Hi bros! Sorry to ask a maybe repeated and dumb question but just to check with u guys 1. how much litre of EO is required of a 1.6A Cerato V1? 2. if my EO level is below L indicator on the dip stick can i still drive without the engine kenna illness? 3. what type of coolant is recommended? and where u pour the coolant into? into the reserve first then main? 4. if cranking takes very long like serveral second, it is mainly the starter problematic? Sorry for all the quite dumb questions cuz i find that after repairing my car for so many times and the repairs i have done has not solve any of the problems i am very very disappointed and felt like a carrot head.... My car details Cerato V1 Auto 1.6, 129K mileage =) Hi bro...I hope I'm knowledgeable enough to answer ur queries... 1) EO should be 3.5 quarts. 1 quart = 0.9+++ litres 2) Oil level below L is dangerous...ur engine might come out smoke. 3) Coolant all the same...just get premixed and pour into ur reserve tank...if u wanna check ur radiator got anough or not, PLEASE check only when ur car is cold... 4) Long crank start got serveral issues...battery power, starter motor, spark plugs play a part...have to narrow down to each factor Good luck!
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Post by aaur4man on Dec 2, 2010 9:05:58 GMT 8
engine oil level drop is not good. sure leak some where. go and buy some EO to standby top up until u've fixed it. dont risk an overhaul. leaks like this should be resolved early , otherwise the downtime, costs etc are not economical to bear.
coolant many use toyota longlife, but i guess as long as coolant level is enough it usually is fine. also top up when low. can pour in DISTILLED water.
ur engine EO could be part of long cranking..battery, starter... to diagnose from there, do ur EO FIRST. if ur sparkies are due for change, do change it. battery can be tested at workshops as well. if all else fails, then u can look at starter. but if ur starter is powerful just that ur car dont start, can check ur injector cables. also if fuel leakage, low fuel pressure etc.
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stahn
Neutral Gear
Posts: 20
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Post by stahn on Dec 2, 2010 13:03:24 GMT 8
cyberalex- Thank you very much for your help! aaur4man- wow alot of things to consider... hmm when i wne to my previous workshop, they say my EO low nevermind, the car will not explode... then they proceed to chop me with other things like car grooming etc..... wah lao i wanna tell them i not stupid leh...
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Post by aaur4man on Dec 2, 2010 14:09:21 GMT 8
if u don mind paying a little more than street 'chia bang ' price, I would say y not bring it to harmony motor. joey can give u professional advice and Ur eo definitely is a critical problem. does it drop v fast? if so must do quick.
when troubleshooting such cases sure must bring to experienced players, and not change this.try, that try, change the whole front engine and parts sure fix one what. tikam tikam or one whole shot do all is NOT troubleshooting.
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Post by LMF on Dec 2, 2010 15:54:43 GMT 8
EO go change if u havent done so for a while liao, if not just top up til between L and F, middle middle can liao, EO is like the 'blood' of your car, low blood no good, over-filled also no good, 129K liao, best to use 5W40 Toyota longlife coolant can get from Ric Tat marketing at Owen Road, 22 bucks, get one tub shd be enough, if not can use Redline water wetter, one bottle pour in after draining out the old coolant and top up rest with distilled water long crank might be battery, can go to a tire/battery shop n get it diagnosed the shop u went to, can give hint what the shop name is? Encounter such shop u must be firm, no means no, if they force/give u black face then forget it, not worth going
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stahn
Neutral Gear
Posts: 20
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Post by stahn on Dec 2, 2010 23:07:39 GMT 8
if u don mind paying a little more than street 'chia bang ' price, I would say y not bring it to harmony motor. joey can give u professional advice and Ur eo definitely is a critical problem. does it drop v fast? if so must do quick. when troubleshooting such cases sure must bring to experienced players, and not change this.try, that try, change the whole front engine and parts sure fix one what. tikam tikam or one whole shot do all is NOT troubleshooting. oh i juz went to another workshop which one of my close fren recommend one, he see my dipstick straight away go into his shop and take a opened EO bottle and pour the remaining of the contents of the EO into my car, and charge me free =) so many kind souls around =) aiyoh that previous workshop i go is my fren's family biz... used to do tyres nia but now expand do workshop repair also... thus some frens also cannot trust one but this one really slip my eyes..
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stahn
Neutral Gear
Posts: 20
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Post by stahn on Dec 2, 2010 23:10:32 GMT 8
EO go change if u havent done so for a while liao, if not just top up til between L and F, middle middle can liao, EO is like the 'blood' of your car, low blood no good, over-filled also no good, 129K liao, best to use 5W40 Toyota longlife coolant can get from Ric Tat marketing at Owen Road, 22 bucks, get one tub shd be enough, if not can use Redline water wetter, one bottle pour in after draining out the old coolant and top up rest with distilled water long crank might be battery, can go to a tire/battery shop n get it diagnosed the shop u went to, can give hint what the shop name is? Encounter such shop u must be firm, no means no, if they force/give u black face then forget it, not worth going oh the shop at pioneer rd north and its call G**d M*o*ning =) aiyah i dowan say too obvious later i scared my fren see... oh by the way, my this current mechanic say that if pour in coolant whereas my radiator already rusty is not good, is that true? and he say there are shops which actually 'clean/de-rust' radiator one? how much arh? and also tyre can pump nitro one ah? But anyways Autobacs wo hua boh?
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Post by aaur4man on Dec 2, 2010 23:19:30 GMT 8
this WS i think a particular Fiat car also go there and do, also somehow know the ppl there.
the other fiat owners dont see eye to eye with the business though.
- are u sure ur radiator is rusty.......normally just do a coolant flush and see what comes out. - tyres can pump nitrogen. costs money though. - autobacs prices are open and aboveboard. ok but dont specialise. again if u know which mech at which outlet good, go ahead. also can see CDGE, their prices generally quite ok.
actually if u know nuts about repair and servicing, bound to spend abit more than those who are really into it. more honest shops will still earn but will not chop u. the feeling of kena chop is.....well thats y im in engineering.
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Fιcκs
Gear THREE
Posts: 474
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Post by Fιcκs on Dec 2, 2010 23:31:14 GMT 8
If I knew you went there, I'd recommend you my frequented workshop a few units away. YC Auto Service.
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stahn
Neutral Gear
Posts: 20
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Post by stahn on Dec 2, 2010 23:39:06 GMT 8
If I knew you went there, I'd recommend you my frequented workshop a few units away. YC Auto Service. oh cool! u got their contact number? =)
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Fιcκs
Gear THREE
Posts: 474
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Post by Fιcκs on Dec 2, 2010 23:46:57 GMT 8
Tel: 62665282
But I'm not sure they'll answer or not because they seem to be very busy. Best to drop by and ask rather than calling when it's convenient for you. Mechanics are all friendly and honest. Oh, I just did my servicing there yesterday.
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stahn
Neutral Gear
Posts: 20
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Post by stahn on Dec 3, 2010 1:51:25 GMT 8
Tel: 62665282 But I'm not sure they'll answer or not because they seem to be very busy. Best to drop by and ask rather than calling when it's convenient for you. Mechanics are all friendly and honest. Oh, I just did my servicing there yesterday. wow cool! thnx but i tink it pays to have some basic knowledge right? =)
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Post by LMF on Dec 3, 2010 10:34:34 GMT 8
EO go change if u havent done so for a while liao, if not just top up til between L and F, middle middle can liao, EO is like the 'blood' of your car, low blood no good, over-filled also no good, 129K liao, best to use 5W40 Toyota longlife coolant can get from Ric Tat marketing at Owen Road, 22 bucks, get one tub shd be enough, if not can use Redline water wetter, one bottle pour in after draining out the old coolant and top up rest with distilled water long crank might be battery, can go to a tire/battery shop n get it diagnosed the shop u went to, can give hint what the shop name is? Encounter such shop u must be firm, no means no, if they force/give u black face then forget it, not worth going oh the shop at pioneer rd north and its call G**d M*o*ning =) aiyah i dowan say too obvious later i scared my fren see... oh by the way, my this current mechanic say that if pour in coolant whereas my radiator already rusty is not good, is that true? and he say there are shops which actually 'clean/de-rust' radiator one? how much arh? and also tyre can pump nitro one ah? But anyways Autobacs wo hua boh? true, sometimes u have to pay $$$ to learn your lesson, been there done that, now i know what is essential and what aint, stock is still the best, dun need extravagant mods if u point A-B driver, regular maintenance and replacement of wear and tear parts wld do fine, your ride wld last u long long time, now with COE cut throat price liao better play safe be safe any contaminant anywhere aint good, best to drain out and replace, radiator and flush la but i nvr also for my 70000K ride, drain out can liao, up to individual lor nitrogen, debatable , some say good say say no good, for me i suggest u pump normal air, regularly chk tire pressure and maintain at healthy level can liao, manual shd state 210 for front and back, for me my front i pump 230 and back 220, quite ok Autobacs u wanna do what? some of their stuff/services quite expensive, i only go there get items that are on sale
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stahn
Neutral Gear
Posts: 20
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Post by stahn on Dec 4, 2010 1:56:53 GMT 8
oh the shop at pioneer rd north and its call G**d M*o*ning =) aiyah i dowan say too obvious later i scared my fren see... oh by the way, my this current mechanic say that if pour in coolant whereas my radiator already rusty is not good, is that true? and he say there are shops which actually 'clean/de-rust' radiator one? how much arh? and also tyre can pump nitro one ah? But anyways Autobacs wo hua boh? true, sometimes u have to pay $$$ to learn your lesson, been there done that, now i know what is essential and what aint, stock is still the best, dun need extravagant mods if u point A-B driver, regular maintenance and replacement of wear and tear parts wld do fine, your ride wld last u long long time, now with COE cut throat price liao better play safe be safe any contaminant anywhere aint good, best to drain out and replace, radiator and flush la but i nvr also for my 70000K ride, drain out can liao, up to individual lor nitrogen, debatable , some say good say say no good, for me i suggest u pump normal air, regularly chk tire pressure and maintain at healthy level can liao, manual shd state 210 for front and back, for me my front i pump 230 and back 220, quite ok Autobacs u wanna do what? some of their stuff/services quite expensive, i only go there get items that are on sale yah loh paid some money for some lessons haha uh like that do radiator flush + top up coollant how much agar agar? =) uh the tire pressure even though i am on 17" rims also same mah? Autobacs i see they change EO only $5 nia unless i cock eye haha =)
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stahn
Neutral Gear
Posts: 20
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Post by stahn on Dec 4, 2010 14:43:37 GMT 8
oh the shop at pioneer rd north and its call G**d M*o*ning =) aiyah i dowan say too obvious later i scared my fren see... oh by the way, my this current mechanic say that if pour in coolant whereas my radiator already rusty is not good, is that true? and he say there are shops which actually 'clean/de-rust' radiator one? how much arh? and also tyre can pump nitro one ah? But anyways Autobacs wo hua boh? true, sometimes u have to pay $$$ to learn your lesson, been there done that, now i know what is essential and what aint, stock is still the best, dun need extravagant mods if u point A-B driver, regular maintenance and replacement of wear and tear parts wld do fine, your ride wld last u long long time, now with COE cut throat price liao better play safe be safe any contaminant anywhere aint good, best to drain out and replace, radiator and flush la but i nvr also for my 70000K ride, drain out can liao, up to individual lor nitrogen, debatable , some say good say say no good, for me i suggest u pump normal air, regularly chk tire pressure and maintain at healthy level can liao, manual shd state 210 for front and back, for me my front i pump 230 and back 220, quite ok Autobacs u wanna do what? some of their stuff/services quite expensive, i only go there get items that are on sale yah loh paid some money for some lessons haha uh like that do radiator flush + top up coollant how much agar agar? =) uh the tire pressure even though i am on 17" rims also same mah? Autobacs i see they change EO only $5 nia unless i cock eye haha =)
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stahn
Neutral Gear
Posts: 20
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Post by stahn on Dec 4, 2010 18:34:25 GMT 8
oh the shop at pioneer rd north and its call G**d M*o*ning =) aiyah i dowan say too obvious later i scared my fren see... oh by the way, my this current mechanic say that if pour in coolant whereas my radiator already rusty is not good, is that true? and he say there are shops which actually 'clean/de-rust' radiator one? how much arh? and also tyre can pump nitro one ah? But anyways Autobacs wo hua boh? true, sometimes u have to pay $$$ to learn your lesson, been there done that, now i know what is essential and what aint, stock is still the best, dun need extravagant mods if u point A-B driver, regular maintenance and replacement of wear and tear parts wld do fine, your ride wld last u long long time, now with COE cut throat price liao better play safe be safe any contaminant anywhere aint good, best to drain out and replace, radiator and flush la but i nvr also for my 70000K ride, drain out can liao, up to individual lor nitrogen, debatable , some say good say say no good, for me i suggest u pump normal air, regularly chk tire pressure and maintain at healthy level can liao, manual shd state 210 for front and back, for me my front i pump 230 and back 220, quite ok Autobacs u wanna do what? some of their stuff/services quite expensive, i only go there get items that are on sale yah loh paid some money for some lessons haha uh like that do radiator flush + top up coollant how much agar agar? =) uh the tire pressure even though i am on 17" rims also same mah? Autobacs i see they change EO only $5 nia unless i cock eye haha =)
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Post by airconvent on Dec 4, 2010 22:35:23 GMT 8
Hi I try and answer your question below : Sorry to ask a maybe repeated and dumb question but just to check with u guys 1. how much litre of EO is required of a 1.6A Cerato V1? About 4 litres. If you buy the standard bottle, there would be about 0.5 litres left after the oil change. 2. if my EO level is below L indicator on the dip stick can i still drive without the engine kenna illness? No. Not recommended. That will result in more friction and accelerate wear and tear. 3. what type of coolant is recommended? and where u pour the coolant into? into the reserve first then main? Not sure what coolant to use. sorry 4. if cranking takes very long like serveral second, it is mainly the starter problematic? Should be a weak battery. If you battery is maintenance free and about 1 year old, you need to change it. BTW, at 129K mileage, you may want to check if the car is due for top overhaul. Its not stated in the manual but at 129K mileage, your car should be around 6 years old. About time for that.
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Post by themostextreme on Dec 4, 2010 23:24:51 GMT 8
Bro, no need top overhaul lah. BTW, i've done 160,000km & my 5.5 yrs old car. gg 4 my 3rd timing belt chge soon.
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Post by LMF on Dec 5, 2010 15:19:10 GMT 8
true, sometimes u have to pay $$$ to learn your lesson, been there done that, now i know what is essential and what aint, stock is still the best, dun need extravagant mods if u point A-B driver, regular maintenance and replacement of wear and tear parts wld do fine, your ride wld last u long long time, now with COE cut throat price liao better play safe be safe any contaminant anywhere aint good, best to drain out and replace, radiator and flush la but i nvr also for my 70000K ride, drain out can liao, up to individual lor nitrogen, debatable , some say good say say no good, for me i suggest u pump normal air, regularly chk tire pressure and maintain at healthy level can liao, manual shd state 210 for front and back, for me my front i pump 230 and back 220, quite ok Autobacs u wanna do what? some of their stuff/services quite expensive, i only go there get items that are on sale yah loh paid some money for some lessons haha uh like that do radiator flush + top up coollant how much agar agar? =) uh the tire pressure even though i am on 17" rims also same mah? Autobacs i see they change EO only $5 nia unless i cock eye haha =) if you get your own coolant then go workshop change aga aga 25,30 bucks lor, aga aga la for 17'' i aint sure, for me my front wld be more, our Cerato front damn heavy lor but steady la the ride Autobacs? dunno haha
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Post by LMF on Dec 5, 2010 15:19:32 GMT 8
Bro, no need top overhaul lah. BTW, i've done 160,000km & my 5.5 yrs old car. gg 4 my 3rd timing belt chge soon. Top overhaul usually involves changing of what ah?
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Post by airconvent on Dec 5, 2010 22:23:59 GMT 8
Bro, no need top overhaul lah. BTW, i've done 160,000km & my 5.5 yrs old car. gg 4 my 3rd timing belt chge soon. Top overhaul due can don't do but progressively your FC will become worse. That happened on my old Starlet way back. LMF : TO involves opening the top cover of the engine block and servicing your tappets, valves and injectors.
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stahn
Neutral Gear
Posts: 20
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Post by stahn on Dec 5, 2010 22:33:42 GMT 8
oh the shop at pioneer rd north and its call G**d M*o*ning =) aiyah i dowan say too obvious later i scared my fren see... oh by the way, my this current mechanic say that if pour in coolant whereas my radiator already rusty is not good, is that true? and he say there are shops which actually 'clean/de-rust' radiator one? how much arh? and also tyre can pump nitro one ah? But anyways Autobacs wo hua boh? true, sometimes u have to pay $$$ to learn your lesson, been there done that, now i know what is essential and what aint, stock is still the best, dun need extravagant mods if u point A-B driver, regular maintenance and replacement of wear and tear parts wld do fine, your ride wld last u long long time, now with COE cut throat price liao better play safe be safe any contaminant anywhere aint good, best to drain out and replace, radiator and flush la but i nvr also for my 70000K ride, drain out can liao, up to individual lor nitrogen, debatable , some say good say say no good, for me i suggest u pump normal air, regularly chk tire pressure and maintain at healthy level can liao, manual shd state 210 for front and back, for me my front i pump 230 and back 220, quite ok Autobacs u wanna do what? some of their stuff/services quite expensive, i only go there get items that are on sale yah loh paid some money for some lessons haha uh like that do radiator flush + top up coollant how much agar agar? =) uh the tire pressure even though i am on 17" rims also same mah? Autobacs i see they change EO only $5 nia unless i cock eye haha =)
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Post by LMF on Dec 6, 2010 8:17:57 GMT 8
Bro, no need top overhaul lah. BTW, i've done 160,000km & my 5.5 yrs old car. gg 4 my 3rd timing belt chge soon. Top overhaul due can don't do but progressively your FC will become worse. That happened on my old Starlet way back. LMF : TO involves opening the top cover of the engine block and servicing your tappets, valves and injectors. thanks bro PS - i believe i saw u at SITEX but u walked too fast cant call out to u liao
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Post by LMF on Dec 6, 2010 8:18:12 GMT 8
true, sometimes u have to pay $$$ to learn your lesson, been there done that, now i know what is essential and what aint, stock is still the best, dun need extravagant mods if u point A-B driver, regular maintenance and replacement of wear and tear parts wld do fine, your ride wld last u long long time, now with COE cut throat price liao better play safe be safe any contaminant anywhere aint good, best to drain out and replace, radiator and flush la but i nvr also for my 70000K ride, drain out can liao, up to individual lor nitrogen, debatable , some say good say say no good, for me i suggest u pump normal air, regularly chk tire pressure and maintain at healthy level can liao, manual shd state 210 for front and back, for me my front i pump 230 and back 220, quite ok Autobacs u wanna do what? some of their stuff/services quite expensive, i only go there get items that are on sale yah loh paid some money for some lessons haha uh like that do radiator flush + top up coollant how much agar agar? =) uh the tire pressure even though i am on 17" rims also same mah? Autobacs i see they change EO only $5 nia unless i cock eye haha =) huh?
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