Harmony Motor
Motoring with Peace of Mind - Honesty, Sincerity and Integrity are our beliefs!
Posts: 1,761
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Post by Harmony Motor on May 2, 2011 16:13:57 GMT 8
One last question. Hope you don't mind. In order to get the best 0-100km/hr timing, I will press the throttle down sharply during launching. Is it true that to achieve the best timing, every gear should be dragged till redline? Although max torque is at 4rpm, but max horsepower is at 5.5rpm. Got abit confused here.. Thanks for your compliment. I just like to share. Knowledge is suppose to be free and shared. For launching and changing of gear, for the beginning, you practice to aim for 3k RPM landing RPM. That is push your RPM to about 5.5k and disengage clutch, change gear then engage clutch. You will find that your landing RPM will be around 3k. If it is higher (for that specific gear) then you will push to a lower gear before disengaging your clutch. You really have to take note of each gear's Landing RPM and try to target at 3k RPM.
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Harmony Motor
Motoring with Peace of Mind - Honesty, Sincerity and Integrity are our beliefs!
Posts: 1,761
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Post by Harmony Motor on May 2, 2011 16:40:10 GMT 8
How is the QF compared to a standalone? Data Logging feature available for QF with external module attached? Im a newbie at reflashed ECU......cannot understand the logic unless the honda's version of P28 and P30 i still understand abit...new chip, new MAP settings.... reflash does the same too? Or just resetting the figures to the pre-defined types? I suppose all QF should have the same generic settings? Help I think you are a little mixed up here. Since you know P28... you should know that this is a chip (EPROM). It's call chipping. That is you remove the original chip from the ECU and replace it with this tuned chip, or should say Pre-tuned chip. Flashing is actually the process of tuning this chip before it is being installed on to the ECU. Eg, you buy an blank chip from the shop, flashed it with a tuned up data and install it onto the ECU. QF is one of the package of Harmony Motor for our Original ECU Programming (OEP) Service. We have FDL (Full Data Logging) packages like Street tune package and track tune package. Original ECU doesn't have the feature of live data logging like the Standalone ECU. Because it is not meant for that purpose. 99.9999% of the ECUs installed in a car is never touched at all. The only thing nearest to this is data stream display via the OBD2 socket. But this is delivered in packages (parcel) and thus not a smooth graph like those of Standalone. However, you can hard wire the engine sensors and use equipment like PLX and Innovate to do logging and for studying later. But this data collected cannot to overlapped onto the ECU maps for tuning purposes. Tuner will have to be very experience to relate both sets of figures together. For OEP, I am able to read the whole data set from the ECU. There are more than 300 maps in the ECU, but we usually touches 20-40 maps. Comparing with Standalone, I think it's not apple to apple. ECU is designed to run the car smoothly and safely, driveability and comfort is important. However, Standalone has only 1 purpose - POWER! Hope my explanation is detail and complete for you.
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Harmony Motor
Motoring with Peace of Mind - Honesty, Sincerity and Integrity are our beliefs!
Posts: 1,761
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Post by Harmony Motor on May 2, 2011 16:42:12 GMT 8
Can the QF be done at your amk branch? cos i went over the weekends and the staff at the branch dont really know what is it.. I am the only one doing this tuning job. I station in Jurong and am very mobile. The best is to call me (96369151) for an appointment.
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Post by picanyeo on May 3, 2011 12:12:42 GMT 8
One last question. Hope you don't mind. In order to get the best 0-100km/hr timing, I will press the throttle down sharply during launching. Is it true that to achieve the best timing, every gear should be dragged till redline? Although max torque is at 4rpm, but max horsepower is at 5.5rpm. Got abit confused here.. Thanks for your compliment. I just like to share. Knowledge is suppose to be free and shared. For launching and changing of gear, for the beginning, you practice to aim for 3k RPM landing RPM. That is push your RPM to about 5.5k and disengage clutch, change gear then engage clutch. You will find that your landing RPM will be around 3k. If it is higher (for that specific gear) then you will push to a lower gear before disengaging your clutch. You really have to take note of each gear's Landing RPM and try to target at 3k RPM. Mine is auto so I'll find it harder to target at 3rpm as I've to control the accelerator properly to prevent early shifting. This is the kind of problem I faced, esp when the rpm is high, a momentary lack in pressure on the accelerator will cause the transmission to upshift and it affects the momentum. Guess I'll have to practice more on that. Thank you Joey, for your advices and recommendations.
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Post by demiblade on May 4, 2011 11:02:36 GMT 8
Just had my black 2010 model 1.6A Koup QF done by Joey. My car is mostly stock except Apexi open pod intake and OWS Iridium spark plugs. With stock ECU, after my pod installation, there was this rubber band feel followed by a torque dump with really loud breathing out sound from exhaust. After QF, noise level and acceleration sounds and feel butter smooth. Not sure whether I am getting extra 5 or 10 BHP, but engine response has definitely improved. It felt like I just went for an oil change! Good job Joey. Thanks! Thanks bro. You good comment make me want to work harder for all my supporters. Your QF definitely makes a difference bro Joey. So keep up the good work! I have some more feedback, long post, and third party feedback after doing more testing. It is about cabin noise, mostly due to the apexi pod I did, before and after QF, on various types of fuels. ECU: Stock Intake: Stock Fuel Type: Esso RON 98, and similar for any other fuel Cabin Noise Level: 3/10 (4/10 when car is on Shell V-Power) ECU: Stock Intake: Apexi Open Pod Fuel Type: Esso RON 98, and similar for any other fuel Cabin Noise Level: 7/10 Comment from my SO (who knows little about cars): "Your car is so noisy after that air intake mod thingy leh!" ECU: After QF Intake: Apexi Open Pod Fuel Type: Esso RON 98 Cabin Noise Level: 4/10 Comment: "No more funny noise when you vroom, very good! Did you throw away the pod thing?" I told her, I did some "tuning" to the car at your workshop. ECU: After QF Intake: Apexi Open Pod Fuel Type: Esso RON 95 Cabin Noise Level: 5/10 Comment: None, she can't tell. ECU: After QF Intake: Apexi Open Pod Fuel Type: Shell V-Power Cabin Noise Level: 7/10 Comment: "It's so noisy. Do you need to send car to that workshop for the tuning thing again?" ECU: After QF Intake: Apexi Open Pod Fuel Type: Esso RON 98 Cabin Noise Level: 4/10 Comment: None so far. She thinks I did the tuning thing again, lol. I did a 0-100km/h drag test at the vacant straight open stretch near woodlands Seagate compound. I am doing about 12sec for 0-100, definitely slower than advertised because testing conditions are not ideal, my own driving skills, and my transmission being 4-speed auto, but with sportronic manual shift (and paddle shifter I installed after market). It used to be about 13sec when car was stock. There is definitely some gain in horse power I can feel from intake+spark plugs+ECU QF. So here is my question to Joey, did you tune the QF to work best with certain type of fuel? It seems to amplify the difference I can feel from different fuel types. For me, the best experience so far (smoothest acceleration with lowest cabin noise) is Esso RON 98. On a V-Power, it feels like the car is going to fall apart when I shift late, or worse, redline it. If other bros have similar experiences with different fuel types on thier 1.6L gamma engine before/after QF, do share!
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Post by demiblade on May 4, 2011 13:12:22 GMT 8
P.S. One more question, after reading what bro picanyeo wrote. What should be the ideal landing RPM when shifting the 1.6 Gamma, 4 Speed Automatic? I am attaching the gear ratios and power curve below for your convenient quick reference.
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Post by dllatimer on May 4, 2011 13:27:34 GMT 8
Apexi pod can hear only if you rev hard. Normally should not be so loud.
I just feel that Apexi open pod is not suitable for auto. Tried it and din like it. Need to rev maybe 2k-3k rpm then effect came it. By the time i rev, the car in front go far far liao. Sound wise like siok but pickup is not that great. To maximise the potential, needs ram pipe and good cai.
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Post by picanyeo on May 4, 2011 14:14:46 GMT 8
I have also tried an open pod before. Which means I took the stock airbox out and replaced it with the open pod. I experienced something similar as yours. need to rev until 2.5rpm and above before the car really starts to move. Not sure if this is called the rubber band effect.
I feel that the ECU is still the most important factor in this case. My guess is the a/f ratio is wrong for rpm below 3. Which is why you must cross the magic point for acceleration to kick in.
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Post by dllatimer on May 4, 2011 14:46:39 GMT 8
Maybe can tune but not so sure. Some pple says can some pple says remains the same. Did not try tuning with apexi open pod on auto as i dun really like the feeling of this.
Even my wife also complained, why my car so pickup so slow. And i actually floored the pedal and it moves. Exactly like those cars that is loud but no power.
It just create noise feel like more power, anyway i got other component also make the bassy noise already. So redundant la.
Tuning wise, type of petrol used does matters.
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Post by picanyeo on May 4, 2011 16:27:36 GMT 8
The ecu can be tuned to the new air flow settings of the open pod. The end result will be smooth torque and linear power delivery. This will bring out the effectiveness of the open pod.
That open pod was really terrible. I can understand how you feel. I have to keep my rpm above 2.5rpm. Anything below that I will have sluggish acceleration.
But this only happen to autos. Manuals have no such problem.
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Post by dllatimer on May 4, 2011 17:35:51 GMT 8
Yes, i agree for manual no problem.
Well, like you say can be tune, however, a good setup also needed to ensure a smooth delivery.
That amount to do up short ram piping and cai, i would rather spend money on R.I.S.K if avaliable for my ride and install more hardware and do a retune to see results.
That is why i see how much can i go with those minimum mods.
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Post by picanyeo on May 4, 2011 19:26:11 GMT 8
Hmm.. Ideally, I should have a gd intake, an aftermarket exhaust and tuning to see significant results. What is lacking is no legal exhaust.
Well, at least now I have a good intake and a gd tuning by Joey. I think this is the furthest i can go legally.
Anyway, for autos, if you chose to use airbox, couple it with a cai and aftermarket filter, add in QF should improve driveability by a margin. Cost effective way to improve driveability I feel..
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Harmony Motor
Motoring with Peace of Mind - Honesty, Sincerity and Integrity are our beliefs!
Posts: 1,761
|
Post by Harmony Motor on May 5, 2011 15:49:26 GMT 8
Thanks for your compliment. I just like to share. Knowledge is suppose to be free and shared. For launching and changing of gear, for the beginning, you practice to aim for 3k RPM landing RPM. That is push your RPM to about 5.5k and disengage clutch, change gear then engage clutch. You will find that your landing RPM will be around 3k. If it is higher (for that specific gear) then you will push to a lower gear before disengaging your clutch. You really have to take note of each gear's Landing RPM and try to target at 3k RPM. Mine is auto so I'll find it harder to target at 3rpm as I've to control the accelerator properly to prevent early shifting. This is the kind of problem I faced, esp when the rpm is high, a momentary lack in pressure on the accelerator will cause the transmission to upshift and it affects the momentum. Guess I'll have to practice more on that. Thank you Joey, for your advices and recommendations. Try this: Fast half throttle (50%) and then gradual increment to control the acceleration. This way, you will down shift 1 gear and prevent upshift again. Until you get the RPM that you want, release the throttle a little to do the up shift. After that, fast down to 50% throttle again and gradual increment again... ;D
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Post by picanyeo on May 5, 2011 16:53:06 GMT 8
Wow.. This looks quite complicated. Will try to learn it. Thanks.. Have a good day ahead..
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Post by Little Red Riding Hood #828 on May 6, 2011 1:17:05 GMT 8
How is the QF compared to a standalone? Data Logging feature available for QF with external module attached? Im a newbie at reflashed ECU......cannot understand the logic unless the honda's version of P28 and P30 i still understand abit...new chip, new MAP settings.... reflash does the same too? Or just resetting the figures to the pre-defined types? I suppose all QF should have the same generic settings? Help I think you are a little mixed up here. Since you know P28... you should know that this is a chip (EPROM). It's call chipping. That is you remove the original chip from the ECU and replace it with this tuned chip, or should say Pre-tuned chip. Flashing is actually the process of tuning this chip before it is being installed on to the ECU. Eg, you buy an blank chip from the shop, flashed it with a tuned up data and install it onto the ECU. QF is one of the package of Harmony Motor for our Original ECU Programming (OEP) Service. We have FDL (Full Data Logging) packages like Street tune package and track tune package. Original ECU doesn't have the feature of live data logging like the Standalone ECU. Because it is not meant for that purpose. 99.9999% of the ECUs installed in a car is never touched at all. The only thing nearest to this is data stream display via the OBD2 socket. But this is delivered in packages (parcel) and thus not a smooth graph like those of Standalone. However, you can hard wire the engine sensors and use equipment like PLX and Innovate to do logging and for studying later. But this data collected cannot to overlapped onto the ECU maps for tuning purposes. Tuner will have to be very experience to relate both sets of figures together. For OEP, I am able to read the whole data set from the ECU. There are more than 300 maps in the ECU, but we usually touches 20-40 maps. Comparing with Standalone, I think it's not apple to apple. ECU is designed to run the car smoothly and safely, driveability and comfort is important. However, Standalone has only 1 purpose - POWER! Hope my explanation is detail and complete for you.
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Post by cliuc on Jul 25, 2011 11:35:54 GMT 8
Hi Joey, know that you're busy but like to check if there is an open slot to do QF on 10 August
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Harmony Motor
Motoring with Peace of Mind - Honesty, Sincerity and Integrity are our beliefs!
Posts: 1,761
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Post by Harmony Motor on Jul 25, 2011 12:51:18 GMT 8
Hi Joey, know that you're busy but like to check if there is an open slot to do QF on 10 August I thought you already done QF for your ride? Please call me for the appointment, I need to access to the calendar. Thanks
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Post by jaysentan on Apr 25, 2012 19:41:41 GMT 8
Is it still avail?
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Post by picanyeo on Apr 25, 2012 19:54:18 GMT 8
Yes.. QF is still available.. You can call Joey for appointment.
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